Is the SPS specifically for me...?

[TimW]

This seems like the perfect place to post.

Well, I have been trying to find the source of an irritating whine from the engine and eventually decided to replace the cam belt tensioner. I'm not too sure when this was last done, if ever so thought it prudent to replace it.

Cam belt cam off fairly simply, then managed to remove the old tensioner and after a bit of fiddling refit the new one.

Then getting the belt back on proved a little more difficult. I know the tricks which DVA showed me but these weren't working. There appeared to be too much slack on the driven side which no amount of tugging could remove. I then made the fateful error of not marking the crank pulley position before moving it a hair to try and get the tension back. Then I didn't know where I was.... D'oh.

Anyway it's now a week later and I am the proud owner of a dial gauge. So the idea is this.

Refit the cam belt in this know/unknown position. This will give me a starting point. Using the dial gauge I will be able to find true TDC. Once found I'll carefully mark it. Once found I'll slowly hand crank the engine whilst measuring the lift on the followers. I know that the inlet will be about 55thou and the exhuast 35 thou giving an overlap of 20thou. When the piston is at TDC of the inlet stroke the valves should be on overlap. If the overlap is greater than 20thou then I know that I need to do a bit of fiddling. If the overlap is 20thou I should be spot on and be safe to crank the engine over.

This is a bit of a learning curve for me but after all this I think that changine a cam belt is a piece of cake. If both cams and crank pulley are locked then belt replacement is pretty straight forward albeit a bit long winded what with the engine in the wrong place and all.

Oh, yes, I forgot to say that the tensioner did show some signs of being worn, so it was a necessary procedure.

Tim

[Rob Bell]

Let us know how you get on Tim If you need a hand, might be able to come over tomorrow...

Today it's headlamp replacement day.

[TimW]

At last, cam belt is back on... It really is a bit of a sod of a job, but with a few cunning manouvres and a second pair of hand it's done. Well, done(ish). I've hand cranked the car and with great relief there is no contact between pistons and valves. phew. But tomorrow I'll pop the cam cover off and measure the valve lift at TDC, then if all well time for the moment of truth and start 'er up..... As long as there is no major clattering I'll be a happy bunny.

The up side to the story is that I'm very confident that I could replace my own cam belt next time round. It's a couple of years away yet but I might tackle it in 2005 just to show off

I have to say although the process isn't beyond most of us, the real problem is the access to the engine bay. It took 3 hours to muck around getting the belt back on. OK, I could probably reduce that to just over an hour now. If it had been a Caterham with full access to the front it might have taken just 30 mins

Tim

[Rob Bell]

Great work Tim! ;D

So, when does the Woolcott garage for Fers open? ;D

[dave]

Well done Tim - you're a brave man

[Dieter]

Ooops, just seen, and Rob pointed me on your cam belt works.

Mine is to be changed soon and I think Tim's advise would be great input to decide whether I'll have it DIY, or join a dealer.

www.mgfcar.de/k_engine/cambelt_mpi.htm
Heavy under construction.
Pics taken from the 'manual', access to the EPC is no prob, but...

Which of the different availiable parts and/or installations are valid for which MGF VIN.
EPC is sowhat of confusing

What in heaven means *Reluktorring* ?? Such german word doesn't exist.
I can imagine this is the 1:1 *translation* from any idiot at MGR DE.
The english _reluctor _ comes common with interupt signal for magnetic sensors though. Holed disk, or tooth on gears though.

Which tool is the right one ?
I assume 18G1674 if the engine is not dismantled. (18G570 for the cam wheels, of course)

Another relates to the tensioner.
The change to the newer 'automatic' without upper coil spring relates to engine number.
This is my problem, cause the change seams quite near to my VIN 505099.
Am I the old or the newer ?

The same with the belt width.
One is 26mm the other is 23mm

Tim, would be great if you find the time to have a look ...

[Kingsley]

have you got verniers on already tim?

[TimW]

Dieter, I have already drafted out some instructions for changing the tensioner. This coming Saturday I need to revisit the tensioner once again for a final adjustment, this should give me ample time to take pics. As such I have not completed all the operations for replacing the cam belt. The obvious exceptions are removing the alternator and unbolting the engine mount but these are not the most technical of elements.

As far as the tenioner goes, I believe that it is recommended that automatic tensioners are replaced with manual ones at cam belt change. There is far less to go wrong with a manual item.

Kingsley, Yep, I have the verniers fitted. I'm debating whether to ask Dave Walker to set them a little hotter when I get the car roaded on the 6th (are you free to come along?)

Tim

[Dieter]

Tim,
of course the engine repair manual doesn't talk about Engine mount and Alternator. (pix on site taken from the Engine Repair Edition on CD)

However, the knowlegde or lack of knowledge when looking to the manual and the EPC only, reflects the confusion any DIY interested will have.

Brief instructions are impossible without having done it once with success. Looking foreward your report.
Use the grafics or reffer to those on my site if useful.

I'm still in daupt whether I take the risk and DIY just with help of axle stands in the garage at home.

[apttony]

Dieter,

Have you been able to clear up the "Reluktorring" translation? My German-English Science Dictionary is from before electronics was invented, circa 1959, so there's not much hope of help from that !

However, the 18G 1674 locking tool is used to clamp the flywheel on Steptronic models when removing the torsion damper and/or flywheel. The CKP sensor has to be removed before the flywheel can be undone.

Has somethingg got lost in the translation?

Tony