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Post by Rob Bell on Jun 3, 2004 5:13:26 GMT -5
Bob - have you found any more about the cams that B&G/ MS sell - particularly with reference to the profiles? Oh, and have you managed to get a price off your local MGR dealer on the cost of new TF135 cams?  |
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Post by BobMillar on Jun 3, 2004 6:20:24 GMT -5
I'll look into it this afternoon
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Post by Rob Bell on Jun 7, 2004 10:07:25 GMT -5
Did you get a price in the end Bob?
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Post by Rob Bell on Jul 28, 2004 6:04:34 GMT -5
Update on the TF135 cam project: Went along with Tim and spoke to Peter Carmichael regarding what is involved in swapping over the TF135 cams. Broadly speaking it looks pretty straight forward. The cam rail unbolts without disturbing the long bolts. A bit of cleaning with nitromers or similar and the application of new sealing gunk should see things come together pretty simply. And as I have a complete head, I'll also transfer the hydraulic tappets from one head to the other, matching them to the appropriate lobe. Easy job. But then came along the spectre of the distributer drive: the rotor arm sits on an extension from the inlet cam - and I am not sure that the TF135 cam has suitable keying for it. See knittingcircle.proboards16.com/index.cgi?board=hugs&action=display&thread=1090437979And forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=28340From what Steve and Simon are saying on the SELOC forum, there is a vague chance that I could fit the distributer drive to the TF135 cam. I guess we'll have to see... Anyone got handy access to the EPC? |
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Post by Rob Bell on Jul 29, 2004 9:21:45 GMT -5
Just spoke briefly to Dave Andrews following a tip-off from Steve Butts. It appears that the spigot diameter of the distributor drive is 17mm.
Hmm - promising - I'll be checking the dimensions of the Spigot hole in the end of the 135 cam - I may be in luck...
Here's keeping my fingers crossed! ;D
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Post by Rob Bell on Jul 29, 2004 12:08:27 GMT -5
Great news: the hole in the end of the 135 cam is perfect for the dizzy drive spigot: 17mm diameter, 21mm deep. ;D
So it looks as though plans could be back on course! I'll have to obtain a new dizzy drive though: it seems as though they're pretty difficult to remove from the cam once in place...
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Post by dave on Jul 29, 2004 13:32:07 GMT -5
Talking to yourself?  Good news though ;D |
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Post by Rob Bell on Jul 29, 2004 13:37:23 GMT -5
I was beginning to wonder Dave! It looks promising: it seemed such a shame to have to sell them on to eBay without first having the opportunity of trying them out on my car. |
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Post by ScarletFever on Aug 6, 2004 7:51:26 GMT -5
So the project may still be on then Rob? I'm still up to assist as and when mate |
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Post by Rob Bell on Aug 24, 2004 7:30:53 GMT -5
Andy - the good news is that the project is DEFINITELY still on! Been doing a fair bit of checking and asking loads of questions, and it appears as though we're still looking at a straight swap of parts. I am still compiling a list of parts required, along with collating advise on how to perform this swap with the least amount of pain. Last thing I need is to get stuck half way through with an engine in a pile of bits, or worse, an assembled engine with the cam timing way out! Not sure about when and where, but certainly after your return from the Treffen (hope it is/was a good one) |
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Post by dave on Aug 24, 2004 7:44:43 GMT -5
If you don't mind another pair of eyes peering over your shoulder and maybe could use another pair of hands to hold things - I'd like to watch!
Voyeur Dave
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Post by Rob Bell on Aug 24, 2004 7:59:51 GMT -5
You're welcome to Dave! The more eyes to spot silly mistakes the better! Bob - just stumbled across your thread on the SELOC site regarding your question regarding the 1.6 cams: forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=24349This thread certainly clears something up for me: the TF 115 and TF 135 use the same head and cams, whereas the 1.6 and 1.8 engines fitted to other MGR products use the lesser 120 PS 1.8 cams. Are you going to go the cam route Bob? The suggestion to use a pair of VVC exhaust cams is very intriguing: the timings are near identical, albeit with fractionally less lift than the 135 cam... They ought to be pretty cheap from someone like Dave Andrews who probably has a load of them taking up valuable space... |
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Post by TimW on Aug 31, 2004 7:30:33 GMT -5
uh oh.... A pair of VVC cams from dave A are £350.... Piper cams are £305. Seems as though Dave A knows their real worth......! rob, Once you've go the engine bay cover off and the car jacked up with wheel off I'll come over and assist with my all encompassing knowledge of K series cam timing  For the mo it might be worth sticking with the existing cambelt. I really say this as it will be quite a protracted affair if you want to replace this too. Also, sticking with the existing tensioner would be a good idea as it will be a piece of cake to re-position correctly. Since you're sticking with OE pulleys you really won't need to worry too much about the timing. If the pulley markers are in the right place and the crank marker is correctly aligned too it will be a straight swap. You will need cam seals and some of that cam ladder goo. As for tools I have all the bits you'll need. Tim |
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Post by Rob Bell on Sept 2, 2004 5:45:38 GMT -5
Thanks Tim ;D
I was planning on keeping the existing cam belt for the time being: it's only half way through it's life cycle, so unless we're hamfisted with the cam replacement, I can't see why it would need replacing just yet.
I had a list of parts needed:
Red cam seals (x2)
Black cam seals (x2)
Distributer drive (x1)
Bottle of that gasket goop stuff (x1)
Anything else I'd need?
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Post by ScarletFever on Sept 7, 2004 10:11:40 GMT -5
Sounds good Rob, let me know as and when you are going to get greasy and i'll be there. |
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