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Post by dave on Nov 12, 2004 4:15:53 GMT -5
Just to set the record straight, the above reference to the rear of a badger was my wording not that of Dave Walker. He did stated that the cams would need to be "properly timed".  Shame - sounded just like something DW would say  |
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Post by Rob Bell on Nov 12, 2004 5:47:34 GMT -5
The smoothness - or lack thereof - of Badger bums is not something I care to become expert in, but it was such a good line, I couldn't resist putting it in! I've got a full parts list on a post-it note above my laptop at home. I'll post the list here when I get a chance to log on from home. No other parts should be necessary - unless we plan a cam belt change at the same time. Procedure wise - I'll see if I can get the appropriate bits from the K-series workshop manual. Tim, if you have any additional information you could tell us about? On the subject of location - we're getting quite a gang together! I don't want to impinge on Bob's hospitality - so will ask him, and perhaps we should consider an alternative location? Andy, would your parents be okay about us potentially using their double garage? |
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Post by Steve on Nov 23, 2004 13:19:39 GMT -5
Are these the part numbers for the cam seals ?  luc100220 & luc100290 |
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Post by Rob Bell on Nov 24, 2004 5:22:57 GMT -5
D'oh! Thanks for the timely reminder Steve! Yes, I'll post all the part numbers that I have. What you've written there looks very familiar, but I'll check. On the subject of location, location, location, Bob's kindly donated us the use of his garage for the fitment of the cams. Even better news is that it is getting power very shortly too - so no working in the dark! LOL I think that a weekend in Jan/Feb is now looking likely as a fitting date? |
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Post by Rob Bell on Nov 24, 2004 13:43:53 GMT -5
Parts list and numbers: NJJ10001 - bush-drive spindle distributor LUC100290 - camshaft oil seal (black) LUC100220 - camshaft oil seal (red) LVP100260 - Gasket, camshaft cover GUG705548GM - Kit - bearing ladder liquid gasket replacement 6 millilitres Annoyingly, MGR have recently trippled the cost of the bush-drive spindle from 8 quid to about 30... arrgghh!  |
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Post by Steve on Nov 29, 2004 7:41:36 GMT -5
Just spoken to the local Rover Dealer NJJ10001 - bush-drive spindle distributor £24.01 +VAT LUC100290 - camshaft oil seal (black) £3.52 +VAT LUC100220 - camshaft oil seal (red) £3.57 +VAT LVP100260 - Gasket, camshaft cover - Now 1100630 £15.65 +VAT GUG705548GM - Kit - bearing ladder liquid gasket replacement 6 millilitres - Now LVV000108EVA £11.10 +VAT Don't know why some part numbers have changed - but that what the "parts man" said. All ex stock exept the bush-drive spindle distributor which he did not think he had ever sold.  Steve |
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Post by Rob Bell on Nov 29, 2004 11:40:38 GMT -5
I'm not surprised that the spigot drive for the distributor hasn't been sold before - after all, not that many people install new camshafts to their MGFs, and those that do probably get supplied from other sources other than their local MGR dealer...
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Post by TimW on Nov 30, 2004 7:17:37 GMT -5
Rob, you will also need a LARGE socket to 'assist' fitting the cam seals. I would look at your spare head to work out what size you need, I think it might be something like a 32mm but do check first.
All other tools I can lend for the occasion.
Just a thought.... if you haven't replaced the cam belt tensioner this would be a very easy time to do it. with the pulleys out of the way it will be a piece of cake.
BTW you will need to remove the pulleys from the cams to fit the cam seals.
Tim
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Post by Steve on Nov 30, 2004 7:31:58 GMT -5
In my case I have a bare pair of 135 cams. Is it worth buying a new set of the bolts used to retain the timing pulleys to the cams. I currently have a single Piper vernier timing pulley. Thinking aloud - if we have an issue with the 135 cams and want to put the original cams back - will we need a 2nd set of cam seals? |
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Post by Rob Bell on Nov 30, 2004 9:08:51 GMT -5
Rob, you will also need a LARGE socket to 'assist' fitting the cam seals. I would look at your spare head to work out what size you need, I think it might be something like a 32mm but do check first. Good - thanks for reminding me! I'll have a look at this tonight if I remember (GOLDFISH ALERT!) All other tools I can lend for the occasion. Nice one Tim, thanks very much ;D Just a thought.... if you haven't replaced the cam belt tensioner this would be a very easy time to do it. with the pulleys out of the way it will be a piece of cake. Given the pix that Don sent me, I think that this is a VERY good idea Tim - see www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/common_problems/CoH/tensioner_failure.htm Eek! Will have to look up the part number for the manual tensioner. The head that I have on my work bench as an automatic tensioner... I think I'd like to keep with manual - what do you chaps think? BTW you will need to remove the pulleys from the cams to fit the cam seals. Ah! Of course you're right. Hadn't even thought about this - but shouldn't be a problem? Will need to check the torque setting - 33 or 65 Nm depending on size of bolt concerned (BTW I have put all these torque settings onto the website: www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group1/facts_and_figures/torque_settings.htm |
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Post by Rob Bell on Nov 30, 2004 9:12:22 GMT -5
In my case I have a bare pair of 135 cams. Is it worth buying a new set of the bolts used to retain the timing pulleys to the cams. I currently have a single Piper vernier timing pulley. IMO this is a very good idea Steve. They can't cost that much can they? Which cam are you putting the vernier on? Presumably the inlet? Thinking aloud - if we have an issue with the 135 cams and want to put the original cams back - will we need a 2nd set of cam seals? Best practice is yes, you'll need another set of cam seals. In practice, I suspect that you could get away re-using the new ones you've got for the 135 cams, so long as they're not rogered in the fitting process. |
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Post by Rob Bell on Nov 30, 2004 9:14:11 GMT -5
BTW I've sent Phil Raby an email to see whether he'd be interested in covering the cam swap for totalMG. Will let you know what he says. |
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Post by Rob Bell on Dec 1, 2004 4:57:26 GMT -5
Rob, you will also need a LARGE socket to 'assist' fitting the cam seals. I would look at your spare head to work out what size you need, I think it might be something like a 32mm but do check first. Checked with the spare head last night: my 1 1/8" socket is a near perfect size for the job! ;D |
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Post by TimW on Dec 1, 2004 7:35:42 GMT -5
Rob, DVA has tensioners for £30ish, ask nicely and you'll get a new bolt too (also good practice to replace it to avoid failure).
tim
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Post by Rob Bell on Dec 1, 2004 7:55:08 GMT -5
Tim, what is the best way to get hold of DVA - phone? I need to chat to him regarding the SC project, and will ask for the tensioner then |
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