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Post by TimW on Dec 1, 2004 9:59:01 GMT -5
I know that DVA is under a bit of pressure at the moment but would say telephone is always the best way unless you have AIM or iChat with an AOL account on your machine.
Tim
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Post by Rob Bell on Dec 1, 2004 10:56:12 GMT -5
:lol: Telephone it is then!  |
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Post by Rob Bell on Jan 15, 2005 13:37:21 GMT -5
Hi folks - a quick up date regarding the cams  I've ordered the bits required to perform the cam swap. What I thought you'd all want to know is that, yet again, the part numbers have been changed!  New part numbers as follows: RNJJ10001 - Bush-drive spindle RLUC100290 - Oil seal Camshaft RLUC100220 - Seal Camshaft RLVP100630 - Gasket - camshaft cover RLVV000108EVA - Kit - Bearing ladder Mostly, it is the same number, but with an 'R' prefix, but the camshaft gasket is an exception. That lot comes in at around 82 quid including VAT - the TF135 head only cost 200!!! Now got to figure out how to mount the dial position gauges... |
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Post by Rob Bell on Jan 17, 2005 10:16:18 GMT -5
Just been reading Blatchat (as you do) - and found some interesting alternatives to the Rover cam ladder sealant. Link: blatchat.com/t.asp?Id=72595- Halfords - no clear indication on what this is called but described as "The anaerobic stuff is in a little see-through concertina cylindrical plastic container about an inch and a half in diameter and about 2 and half inches long. The goop itself is orange."
- Locktite 574 - (RS Spares, costs £16.75)
Wish I saw this before buying the Rover stuff, but there you go - especially after reading how hard it is to use when cold. Best to warm it up prior to use in a pot of warm water. Not sure how we're going to be able to do that in Tim's lock up!  |
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Post by Steve on Jan 26, 2005 4:35:27 GMT -5
Rob, So far I have collected most of the parts. Collected- TF135 cams, Pair
- Single vernier timing pulley, Piper
- RLUC100290 - camshaft oil seal (black)
- RLUC100220 - camshaft oil seal (red)
- RLVP1100630 - Gasket, camshaft cover - Now 1100630 (was LVP100260)
Required- RNJJ10001 - bush-drive spindle distributor
- RLVV000108EVA - Kit - bearing ladder liquid gasket replacement 6 millilitres
- Additional vernier (possibly)
I was thinking about getting the following so that the original cams can be left as intact as possible, just in case! - Standard pulley
- Pulley Retaining Bolts (x2)
What was the outcome of the discussion with DVA about the cam belt tensioner ? Do you think it is going to be feasable to do both cars at once. I think it would be an intresting comparision. As your is a standard 1.8i engine and mine ... is not. Whats what we like plenty of planning  Steve |
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Post by Steve on Jan 26, 2005 5:44:13 GMT -5
Plus, What about the Drive pin for the camshaft gear  ? As my cam shafts are new I will need 2 of these. Rob, do your 135 cams have these fitted? or are you planning to extract and reuse the old ones? |
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Post by Rob Bell on Jan 26, 2005 8:04:10 GMT -5
Steve, because my camshafts are coming from a fully assembled head, there is no need for me to worry about the drive pins: they're already inserted As you say though - as your cams are new and 'nude', you'll need to source the pins and insert them... might be worth dropping DVA a line? Or sourcing from your local Rover dealer. Regarding the tensioner, I've bitten the bullet and bought a new manual tensioner from the MGR garage. Also got a new retaining bolt (is this the bolt you meant Tim? The Allen bolt one?)... Regarding venue, we've relocated to Tim's lock up. Tim reckons on taking the whole weekend to swap my cams... I am sure it won't take that long (famous last words??) - but since this is something that is a little outside of our collective experience, it seems sensible to put aside that much time. Can we do both cars at the same time? I guess we'll have to see what's involved in doing mine (I'm the guinea pig - so we'll be well-oiled by the time we get to do yours! ROFL ) - so come along, we can figure out what to do, and if there is time, we'll do yours too. The job to do ahead of time is to insert the drive pins and the dizzy spigot thingy into the inlet cam. That should simplify things a little. I intend to make a bracket so we can do the valve timing - no problem for my standard cams, but essential for your vernier pulley. |
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Post by Steve on Feb 1, 2005 14:51:52 GMT -5
Rob what is the part no. of the manual tensioner? Is it LHB101130?
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Post by Rob Bell on Feb 2, 2005 6:27:35 GMT -5
Steve, I'll check when I get home tonight |
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Post by TimW on Feb 8, 2005 3:16:13 GMT -5
Also got a new retaining bolt (is this the bolt you meant Tim? The Allen bolt one?)... Yes, the BIG allen bolt |
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Post by Rob Bell on Feb 8, 2005 10:31:03 GMT -5
Thanks Tim - that's the one I've got! Steve - goldfish syndrome again - sorry, I forgot to look that part number up for you - d'oh!  |
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Post by Rob Bell on Feb 21, 2005 12:22:35 GMT -5
Has everyone been following the MGF BBS thread regarding cams and the valve springs? This quote seems to summarise things very well: Equally interesting is that Piper and Kent seem to recommend maximum cam lifts of not more than 9.5 and 10.0mm respectively, and DVA seems to indicate that coilbinding of the springs is the inevitable consequence of 10.5mm lift... so the question remains: are we pushing our luck using the TF135 cams on the original LGL10008 valve springs?  |
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Post by Steve on Feb 22, 2005 4:31:54 GMT -5
Worth dropping a line to DVA?
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Post by Rob Bell on Feb 22, 2005 6:20:04 GMT -5
I think that DVA is saying that we'll be okay on standard valve springs, but I can certainly check! I need to chat to him regarding the SC project anyway... |
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Post by Rob Bell on Mar 4, 2005 10:04:30 GMT -5
Not had a great deal of success contacting Dave - but then I've not had much time of late to get on the phone to keep trying... Steve - in case you missed my posting on the MGF Technical BBS, the part number stamped on the cams in my TF135 head are LGC100300 - the same number as yours. As far as I am concerned, project 135 is still on. Will check for coil binding when the cams are in (turn over the cams with large spanner - but that will need engine to be in a 'non-contact position', so I am not quite sure whether this will work? |
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? As my cam shafts are new I will need 2 of these.
